A refined cocktail program and wine list, paired with an exceptional hospitality. Why Gitanes is one of the Region’s most complete food and beverage destinations.
Gitanes
361 Elgin Street, Ottawa
Tuesday to Thursday 5:30 PM to 10 PM
Friday & Saturday 5:30 PM to 11 PM
Closed on Mondays
Since opening on Elgin Street in 2019, Gitanes has established itself as one of Ottawa’s very best restaurants. Taking over the address where Oz Kafe had fed locals and industry people for more than a decade, it brought a distinctly French-inspired restaurant to the Golden Triangle, earning national recognition, including a place among Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants.
Yet Gitanes deserves attention beyond its culinary reputation. Its cocktail program, wine list and spirits selection form a very cohesive offering, supported by knowledgeable staff and a level of hospitality that makes for an exceptional experience.
Gitanes may not have Ottawa’s utmost technically ambitious cocktails or most experimental kitchen. Its strength, nonetheless, lies in being really good at a lot of things. My most recent visit, in late July, reinforced that impression of mine.
Gitanes is divided into three areas: the main dining room, a more private Champagne Room and a cocktail bar.
At the centre of the dining room is a jaw-dropping pink quartzite waterfall island, where cooks finish dishes in full view of guests. The kitchen’s coordinated movements contribute to the room’s energy, and watching the preparation of food is part of the thrill.
The Champagne Room offers a more intimate vibe. Dim lighting, upholstered banquette seating and industrial details create a mood that’s ideal for a long dinner and conversation.
The energy at the bar is different. Illuminated wooden shelves display an extensive selection of spirits, and exposed stone and warm lighting give the space a relaxed, inviting atmosphere. With six bar stools and two small tables, it feels like a neighbourhood cocktail bar.
On the evening of my latest visit, the restaurant was almost full when I arrived. Near closing, most diners had naturally left, and the remaining guests and staff had gravitated toward the bar. The music remained at conversational volume, and the atmosphere stayed intimate.
Gitanes accommodates both a special-occasion dinner and a casual drink without requiring guests to adopt a particular dress code. It’s sophisticated but not stuffy.
My visit last July was for a wedding anniversary. The occasion was acknowledged with a complimentary glass of Closson Chase’s Mosaic, a non-vintage Charmat-method Chardonnay from Ontario. It was a modest gesture that went a long way.
Our server asked about dietary restrictions and allergies, explained each dish in detail and guided us through the cocktail menu. Plates were cleared promptly and fresh utensils arrived between courses. Their practice of refolding guests’ napkins when they leave the table shows how attentive they are to the details.
The service was particularly impressive when it came to beverages. Our server could explain the ingredients in each cocktail and distinguish between drinks with different structures and flavour profiles.
General manager and sommelier Bernard Joseph Lemoyne visited our table three times: first to greet us, then to recommend wines, and later to talk about wine. His recommendations were thoughtful and his explanations were detailed. He brought small pours for us to taste before we committed to ordering by the glass, explaining how each wine would interact with the food.
This is one thing I particularly appreciate about Gitanes: their smaller footprint allows for a more personal style of service, with time for conversation and individual recommendations.
The team connects with the guest.
Cory Contini continues to lead Gitanes’ cocktail program.
A veteran of Ottawa’s bar scene, Cory previously created the Statesman at Zoe’s Lounge, one of the city’s most recognizable cocktails. At Gitanes, the approach is refined: a seasonally rotating menu, employing house-made infusions, syrups and bitters.
The Art Basil combines in-house infused butterfly pea gin, Lillet Blanc, lemon and basil. Its striking purple colour gives way to a refreshing gin sour profile, with tart citrus, juniper, pineapple and a subtle herbal note.
The Nouveau Riche, made with reposado tequila, Dry Curaçao, lime, pomegranate and serrano, is a smooth spicy Margarita variation. The serrano contributes an assertive fragrance but only a hint of heat, allowing the citrus and fruit to remain in balance.
The Maple Diplomat takes a more spirit-forward direction, combining North of 7’s Bourbon Style Canadian Whisky with mezcal, maple and root beer bitters. Served over a large clear ice cube and finished with a burnt cinnamon stick, it offers a smooth whisky base, a bit of sweetness and a smoky finish.
Rumble In The Jungle sits somewhere between a mai tai, a piña colada, and a New York sour. The crushed ice and mini-umbrella give it tropical vibes, while the coconut milk and oranje juice combine to give a pineapple-coconut flavour. The float of red wine is a beautiful touch, mimicking a sunset. A rum “sunset” to rival the tequila sunrise.
East of Eden balances fruity and sour notes with a touch of sweetness. The mezcal lends a smoky profile to the drink, while the absinthe adds a licorice scent before the first sip. Crushed ice keeps the drink refreshing, while a grapefruit wedge garnish adds brightness.
Bernard Lemoyne and a wine list in motion
Gitanes has one of the best wine lists in the city, thanks to Bernard. He estimates that he tastes between 30 and 90 wines per week as reps visit the restaurant. He selects wines he can personally stand behind, and he avoids ordering excessive quantities because the food menu changes frequently.
Rather than treating the wine list as a fixed inventory, Bernard adjusts purchasing in response to the kitchen. The result is a program designed to follow the food rather than operate independently from it.
With the hanger steak frites, Bernard suggested the 2019 Château Larrivaux L’X de Larrivaux, a Haut-Médoc Bordeaux blend. Its tannins were less gripping than those of a more overtly Cabernet-dominant wine, and the steak made the wine taste even smoother.
For the Gitanes Burger, he recommended a Côtes du Rhône. He picked a wine with enough character to complement the 100-day dry-aged beef without clashing with the Époisses cheese.
As always, I was grateful for his recommendations.
Bernard’s value lies in more than his knowledge of regions and producers. He translates that knowledge into useful decisions for guests, explaining the relationship between a wine’s structure and the particular ingredients on the plate.
Where food & beverage meet
New Brunswick oysters arrive freshly shucked over crushed ice in a vintage handcrafted silver bowl, accompanied by mignonette, horseradish, lemon and chili sauce. This presentation is the most elegant oyster services I have experienced.
Lamb tartare is lightly seasoned, with flavours that leaning almost Mexican. Its smooth texture is offset by salty chips.
The Gitanes Burger is memorable. A patty made from 100-day dry-aged beef, paired with Époisses de Bourgogne, charred and pickled red onions and Bordelaise sauce, all within a toasted sesame-seed brioche bun. Very much at the opposite end of the spectrum compared to a smash burger.
Nice to know: Gitanes runs a 30$ steak-frites special every Thursday. The hanger steak frites is traditional: a tender, medium-rare cut served with thin fries, aioli and béarnaise. It is a great expression of the restaurant’s approach to this classic French dish.
Gitanes is also known for their tasting menu, which includes several dishes.
Gitanes is approaching a significant transition. In an announcement published on October 16, the restaurant confirmed that November 1 would be Chef Mitch’s final day after seven years of leadership. The owners credited him with helping take Gitanes to Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants and recognized his contribution to the restaurant and the wider hospitality community.
His departure marks the end of an important chapter. During my visits, the kitchen remained integral to the experience, from the tasting menu, to the steak frites, to the composition of the Gitanes Burger.
They have emphasized that Gitanes will remain Gitanes while acknowledging that every chef brings a distinct style and experience to the kitchen. What this means for the menu remains to be seen. The restaurant’s next chapter should be assessed on its own merits once its new culinary direction becomes clear.
Gitanes belongs among the region’s best bars because it delivers an utmost complete food and beverage experience.
Their strength lies in being cohesively competitive in many spheres: the cocktail program, the wine list, the spirits selection, the food, and the overall vibe of the room.
Above all, Gitanes understands that the quality of a beverage program depends on the people who deliver it. Cory’s cocktails and Bernard’s wine recommendations are impressive in their own right, but their value is amplified by a service culture that makes guests feel special.
The departure of Chef Mitch introduces uncertainty into the restaurant’s culinary future, and that transition deserves attention. But the experience I encountered over the past years demonstrated why Gitanes has earned its reputation.