Hidden beneath Starling in the ByWard Market, Apothecary blends moody charm, striking cocktails and a full dining menu.
Apothecary Cocktail Lounge
54 York Street
Sunday to Thursday: 6 PM to Midnight
Friday & Saturday: 6 PM to 1 AM
When the pandemic swept through Ottawa, repeated lockdowns strained the city’s restaurant industry. Some operators adapted and endured; others, despite loyal followings, were forced to close. In the aftermath, several prime spaces changed hands as well-capitalized restaurant groups moved in. DreamMind Group took over 225 Marché Way at Lansdowne following the closure of Industra, as well as 56 ByWard Market Square, formerly home to Mercury Lounge. On Elgin Street, Whalesbone Restaurant Group assumed control of 283 Elgin, the longtime address of Fox & Feather.
Another notable transition occurred at 54 York Street, a storied address that had long been home to the Fish Market and below, the much-loved Vineyard Wine Bar. The space was acquired by restaurateur John Borsten, known for Metropolitan Brasserie, Zak’s, and The Grand. His vision addressed a noticeable gap in Ottawa’s nightlife at the time: a dedicated cocktail lounge. The concept would be called Apothecary.
Apothecary opened in 2021 as part of YOW, a three-story restaurant and bar. At street level sits Starling, a bright, lively restaurant and bar. Climb upward to Rooftop, a terrace designed for Ottawa’s short but sweet summer season. And descend below ground into the cellar, where you’ll find Apothecary, a cocktail bar designed around an evocative theme: the mysterious, medicinal world of an old-world apothecary.
It’s an enticing concept. The very word “apothecary” conjures images of tinctures, remedies, and alchemical experiments, exactly the sort of associations modern cocktail culture loves to riff on.
To access Apothecary, you must first enter through Starling’s lively ground-floor dining room, before slipping downstairs to a darker, more intimate world.
It’s a beautiful space, and the exposed stone foundation walls give the space a historic charm. There’s a long bar counter with velvet seats, its shelves glowing with backlit bottles. Black cotton napkins draped over lampshades diffuse the light into soft shadows, while oil candles flicker on every table, adding a feeling of warmth to the place. Music plays at a low level from a small speaker at the far end of the room. Round banquettes tucked into corners create cozy nooks, though the bar itself feels like the best seat, particularly for parties of two.
The rotating cocktail menu features six signature drinks (listed as Remedies) priced from $19 to $22, alongside two nonalcoholic options (listed as Placebos) at $13 to $14. The program incorporates some in-house preparation, including cinnamon-infused amaretto, blueberry coconut-infused Ketel One vodka, apple-infused Tanqueray, and clarified milk punch. That said, some ingredient repetition (Crown Royal Northern Harvest Rye) and the reliance on a few lower shelf bottles sit somewhat awkwardly at a price point above Ottawa’s norm. Still, the theatrical appeal of The Mortician, combined with the program’s technical touches and occasional complexity, gives the list enough character to justify attention.
The cocktails are served in beautiful glassware, such as Ludlow-patterned heavy tumblers. They are all well-balanced, and the presentation is great. Large ice cubes are employed, and garnishes vary from dehydrated citrus wheels to morgue tag.
The Mortician (23$): Apothecary’s show-stopping cocktail; this whisky-based libation is smoked under a bell jar. The result is an aromatic cloud that pairs well with the drink’s sweet cinnamon profile. It is whiskey-forward while remaining smooth and well-balanced. It comes in a tumbler and is decorated with a mortuary toe tag.
The Gilded Flask (19$): This is an enjoyable, well-balanced, spirit-forward cocktail. The apricot brandy overshadows the drink’s flavour, leaving little room for the 1800 Reposado tequila to shine. It is served in a tumbler with a dehydrated citrus wheel and a star anise.
Dealer’s Choice cocktail made with Siempre Tequila
Blurring the lines between restaurant and cocktail lounge, Apothecary offers a full dining menu. This approach broadens its appeal but also invites more scrutiny.
Tuna Bites (24$): This Japanese-inspired dish is akin to the sushi pizza that is on the menu at most sushi restaurants. A deep-fried rice patty serves as the base, topped with tuna tataki, sesame sauce, pickled onions, thinly sliced red chilli, and arugula. Unfortunately, the deep-fried rice overpowers the delicate flavours of the tuna. It was topped with arugula.
Starling Burger (28$): This is a delicious burger consisting of two smashed patties and a delectable burger sauce.
Apothecary is a beautiful venue and an appealing watering hole. While the cocktail program is at times underwhelming in scope, it succeeds in presentation and showmanship, particularly with cocktails like The Mortician. Still, Apothecary is a bar worth visiting, if not for some cool cocktails, then for the sheer pleasure of spending some time in its moody space.